Pattern Preparation : How to Add Seam Allowance

Seam Allowance

Most of our patterns include seam allowances, so you can simply lay them out on the fabric as is and cut along the pre-printed cutting lines. However, there are some of our patterns that do not include seam allowances and may require you to add seam allowances before cutting your fabric. This section offers guidelines for using these kind of pattern.

There are two ways in preparing seam allowance

First way, by adding the seam allowance to the pattern piece. You add them to the paper pattern itself before the pattern pieces are cut out.

The other way is by each paper pattern piece is cut out along the stitching lines (i.e., seam lines), with no seam allowances added. Seam allowances will be added before the fabric is cut.

So, how much exactly should the seam allowance be? 

Seam allowances should be 5/8inch (1.5 cm) all around. Or at least 1/2inch (1.25cm)

But there are a few exceptions:

• ·        On relatively straight hems (such as on pant legs, narrow skirts, or jackets), a hem allowance of 1¼inch (3cm) is applied.
• ·        On hems with flared sections (such as on full or fringed skirts), the hem can be narrower than ⅜” (1cm).
• ·        Seam allowances around zippers should be 3/4 inch (2cm). Beyond the zipper, the allowance tapers back to 5/8 inch (1.5cm)

Once the seam allowances have been carefully added, you can cut the pattern pieces along the newly drawn cutting lines.